Bat Wall 🦇 Perma-Draws
Background

In the Spring of 2023 I and several other regular Bat Wall climbers were talking about our many Bat Wall projects when one of us said, "Wouldn't it be nice if there were more permas on them?" What followed was a lot of "huh, why not?" and an informal survey that resulted in overwhelming support.

I started a fundraiser, about a dozen people donated enough to blanket the wall in perma-draws. In an effort not to go overboard, here are some general though ts on the permas that the fundraiser purchased at Bat Wall. It can be noted there were about twice as many permas up as were placed from this recent push.

Since the new ones went up, I've made an effort to ask how people feel about them. I'd estimate 60% overwhelming positive, 20% fairly positive, 15% it was fine before but not negative (indifferent or neutral), and 5% negative (reason stated that the Dracula draws would increase traffic and therefore increase polish on the route).

Where are they going?
  • ∙ In a spot with high utility. Likely for cleaning or rappelling
  • ∙ Highly annoying clips without an appropriate payoff
  • ∙ Routes I know people are projecting
  • ∙ Routes that are at least 12-, likely 12 or 12+.
Where are they not going?
  • ∙ Stick-clip bolts- i.e. Bloodline 2 or Bitenight 2
  • ∙ Easy clipping positions
  • ∙ Physically obnoxious/in the way
  • ∙ Aesthetically obtrusive i.e. low to the ground
DrawThoughtsStatus
Drac 5Highly annoying clip, doesn't add much to the routeUp
Drac 6Personally don't care about this one but 4 other people asked about it after I took it down. Will admit it's pretty nice having it there after a burly ramp section.Up
Drac 3rd to lastHighly annoying cross body clipUp
All other Dracula drawsPortland-area test piece, high trafficked as access to MFR ledge and Chalkula. Would be convenient but possibly excessive?Down
FrightlightPut up for projecting. Pulled bolt 6, left remainder upMostly Up
BitenightBolt 3 and 4 up for projecting. Remainder aren't bad clipsSome up
SuperstitionBolt 6 for cleaning. Considered second to last bolt but was in your face on the traverse during a test run6 Up
VladGreat for cleaning and fairly out of sightUp